Roksanda on Monday showed a collection of stylised psychedelics. Inspired
by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s cult 1972 film The Bitter Tears of Petra von
Kant, the Serbian designer said backstage: “The whole mood of the movie
really inspired me, so I tried to portray this emotion.” What we saw on the
catwalk were rich jacquards, laser-cut leathers and hand-embroidered
latticed plastic leaves, all proposed in the brightest of purples, pinks
and orange.
Out of all London Fashion Week shows, the most stellar front row is always
at Burberry Prorsum, which saw Kate Moss, Sam Smith, Cara Delevingne,
Jourdan Dunn and a very late arrival of Naomi Campbell. AW15 will go down
as one of Christopher Bailey’s more bohemian collections, enhanced by a
live acoustic performance from Clare Maguire, who wrote an original
composition exclusively for the show entitled “Give Me.” This season’s
free-spirited ‘Patchwork, patterns & prints’ collection resonated a sense
of nostalgia. The brand’s signature trenches were given a touch of the
flower-power generation, shown this time emblazoned with paisley and
vintage floral prints inspired by Durham quilts. Animal and camouflage
printed lace featured on folk-style dresses, while suede thigh-high boots
were patterned with retro cut-out patches and fringe detailing brought
Stevie Nicks to mind.
Canadian-born Erdem Moralioglu this season worked with artist Robin Brown
to produce a set for his AW15 collection. ‘I was fascinated to create a
character through environment as much as through clothes’ the designer
said backstage. Walking through the house of an art collector filled with
books, stacks of papers and plenty of art, models wore dresses and tailored
coats in rich metallic brocades, upholstery fabrics and romantic coloured
lace. Without becoming too Victoriana, the fabrics were modernised with raw
and frayed edges and silhouettes were shorter, easier and more fluid than
in previous seasons. Key pieces include needle-punched camel coats and
patchwork mini dresses.
Peter Pilotto found themselves fascinated with board games this season.
Designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto sent out the first model
wearing a cream military coat decorated with winding tufts of pink fur,
proving that there is fun in rules and precision. Snakes and Ladders,
Connect Four and Ludo were three board games that inspired the designers’
prints: “We started with the layout and the dynamics of board games with
all their different elements, from the design of the circuit, to the
equipment like dice and tokens which are so great to place on clothes,”
explained Pilotto post-show.
Giles has never shied away from a little theatre, and this season it was
the 17th century Chelsea Physic Garden where he imagined his muse could be
taking a stroll. Ruffs, capes, frock coats and printed duchesse satin were
just some of the references of a time that passed. But if the clothes felt
grand and reverential, there was plenty to covet for today’s woman, too.
Pristine ruffled white shirts; a pencil dress in a gothic jacquard; or a
flared wool coat with lacing detailing. The exquisite tailoring shone
through, no matter which century Giles felt aligned to.
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